Cultural Tour of Los Angeles: Eat Your Way through L.A.

Continue southeast on 2nd and then turn left (north) on Alameda and continue for a few blocks while you cross the 101 Freeway.

Stop #11: Olvera Street (845 N. Alameda St.) on the left and Union Station (800 N. Alameda St.) on the right:
Around Olvera Street (El Pueblo Historical Monument and La Placita), you will find historical landmarks that celebrate “the Spanish birthplace of Los Angeles”, though the Tongva Native Americans thrived here for many centuries before that. El Pueblo de Los Angeles was “born” when up to 14 Mexican families (from “New Spain” to the south) settled here in 1781, following orders from the King of Spain. Its official name is descriptive: “El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora la Reina de los Ángeles de Porciúncula”, which translates to “The Town of Our Lady the Queen of the Angels of Porciúncula”. The city grew around and away from this site that became part of Mexico after 1822, and the U.S. in the late 1840s. Time took its toll and by the 1920s, many of these failing structures were to be demolished. History buffs (such as Christine Sterling) came to the rescue and saved the old landmarks, eventually leading to the creation of this 44-acre El Pueblo Historic Park with its 27 historic buildings.      

Saving L.A.’s Historic Architecture. The Garnier Building (1890) and block was inhabited by Chinese immigrants until 1953. History buffs saved it from demolition, along with a few other key landmarks around Olvera Street. 

L.A.’s first firehouse, church, and theater were built around the plaza. Visit the oldest remaining house in L.A., the Avila Adobe, built in 1818, when vineyards and other farmlands served as backdrop. Note the Pico House, built by the former (1832 and 1845-1846) Mexican Governor of California, Pio Pico. It was completed in 1870 as one of the most extravagant hotels in California, with its indoor plumbing, gas lighting, and Italianate Victorian architecture that looked over Los Angeles Plaza. As you pass through today’s colorful outdoor Mexican marketplace with its shops, souvenirs, and Mexican-style restaurants, you might be lucky to catch some mariachi music or traditional Mexican folk dancers or one of the colorful festivals that frequent the plaza.

When Los Angeles was “Born”. Starting in 1781, Spanish settlements were built on top of the Tongva Native American villages that had been established here for many centuries. The Plaza has been a gathering place since L.A.’s earliest days. You will find old photos such as these posted around the Adobe and Plaza that illustrate the site’s history.

Look for Union Station across the street, another iconic L.A. landmark. You can’t miss this blast from L.A.’s transportation past that has appeared in countless films. It has been rejuvenated by a 21st Century L.A. that is building impressive new public transportation options around an extensive, booming rail system. This is the system’s anchor. Built in 1939 with its Mission Moderne style architecture (Spanish Colonial, Mission Revival, and Art Deco), it was originally intended to bring three local railroad terminals together.

Today, Union Station is also home to current cultural events that feature L.A. art and entertainment. You will see why it is advertised as “the last of the great train stations” when you walk in the door. It screams out a “Welcome to California.” Countless stories have been told by the incredible diversity of people that landed in this historic masterpiece for a visit and then decided to make southern California their home. Some of them brought the very recipes we enjoy during this tour.       

One Building with a Wealth of Stories to Tell. Extravagant Pico House (left) was built by former Mexican Governor Pio Pico in 1870 to face the Plaza. Though he is well established as one of California’s most influential leaders, he was eventually forced to sell this building that kept his name.
Tourism Surrounds Symbols of Our History. Colorful – and sometimes stereotypical – outdoor souvenir shops and stalls decorate today’s Olvera Street.
Remembering the First Invaders and Their Artifacts. L.A.’s oldest, Avila Adobe (1818), has been saved from demolition and restored. Take some extra time to absorb the architecture and landscapes here and to view the displays that trace L.A. history.  
Educational Landscapes. More than two centuries of history have been preserved in this building at El Pueblo de Los Angeles.
Angelenos Gathered Here. The Avila Adobe was the center of events and celebrations that punctuated those early days.
And Angelenos Still Gather Here. The Plaza now hosts a wide variety of concerts, festivals, and other cultural events, such as this Ecuadorian festival.
Ecuadorian Cultures in the Mix. L.A. started Spanish in the late 1700s, turned Mexican in 1822, and became part of the U.S. in the late 1840s. It is now home to diverse Latin American cultures that are comfortable here. The big names in Ecuadorian entertainment showed up for this event.
Latin Culture and Cuisine with a Twist of Tourist? Today’s Olvera Street is peppered with a wealth of Mexican food choices that draw locals and tourists. As with many other L.A. business districts, some landscapes are designed to satisfy visitors’ expectations and selfie opportunities. But, wait! This is also reported to be one of L.A.’s oldest buildings. Recent research has reminded us that this Pelanconi Building was built between 1855 and 1857 by an Italian named Giuseppe Covacicci, on what was known up to 1877 as Calle de la Vignes, or “Vineyard Street”, marking a center of California’s Italian community and the epicenter for wine production at the time. According to KCET and other local sources, it was renamed “the Pelanconi House after it was purchased by Lombardy-born vintner Antonio Pelanconi.” You can see that it is now the Mexican restaurant known as La Golodrina Café. You will also find the Italian American Museum of Los Angeles nearby in old Italian Hall on Main Street.  

We are reminded that a diverse mix of cultures, including Mexican, French. Anglo, and Chinese families, settled in the old Pueblo and around the Plaza in the 1800s. During this period, Italian immigrants were drawn to the Mediterranean environments here, practicing agriculture, viticulture, and establishing wineries around “Calle de la Vignes” before it became Olvera Street. In 1908, a community center named “Italian Hall” was completed to celebrate and support this culture. They also connected to the thousands of Italian fishermen who settled in San Pedro. But the Italian community spread across L.A. and scattered throughout California during the 20th Century, leaving only memories of what could have been labelled L.A.’s historic “Little Italy” here. Efforts to acknowledge this past were more recently established at the nearby Italian American Museum of Los Angeles on Main Street, in the old Italian Hall building. Today’s dispersed Italian population in L.A. is about the 5th largest in the U.S. You might recognize this legacy on L.A. street signs (Bruno, Lanfranco, Sotello) and in southern California school and community names, such as Montebello. And though we won’t pick one for you on this tour, you will find quality Italian cuisine in nearly every southern California neighborhood, from chain restaurants to local family-owned gems.  One of the most famous California Italian immigrants is featured in our last stop.  

Bridges to the Most Diverse City. Demonstrating L.A.’s connections to the world, from near the Plaza you can see how our city is recognized and admired by its multitude of Sister Cities.        
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